Raja Ampat is a diver’s paradise, often referred to as the "Last Paradise" due to its breathtaking marine biodiversity. Situated in the heart of the Coral Triangle, Indonesia’s Raja Ampat archipelago boasts some of the most pristine coral reefs, rich marine life, and unforgettable diving experiences in the world. This comprehensive guide will cover everything you need to know about diving in Raja Ampat, from the best dive sites to practical travel tips.
In recent years, Raja Ampat has become known as one of the world’s top diving destinations; let’s see if the reputation is true or just marketing.
1. Overview of Raja Ampat
Raja Ampat, located in the province of West Papua, Indonesia, consists of over 1,500 small islands, cays, and shoals. The four main islands—Waigeo, Batanta, Salawati, and Misool (hence the name, which in the local language means "the four Kings")—serve as the primary hubs for diving adventures. The region is known for its incredible biodiversity, with over 500 species of coral and 1,500 species of fish, including manta rays, sharks, and even the elusive wobbegong shark.
2. Why Raja Ampat is Special for Diving
Raja Ampat's biodiversity is unrivaled. The Coral Triangle, which stretches from the Philippines to the Solomon Islands, is the global center of marine life, and Raja Ampat sits right at its heart. This region’s reefs are home to approximately 75% of all known coral species. Beyond corals, you'll encounter schools of barracudas and jackfish, sharks, batfish, angelfish, pufferfish, napoleon wrasses and the magnificent manta rays gliding through crystal-clear waters. Macro-lovers will also find a haven in the smaller critters like pygmy seahorses, nudibranchs, and blue-ringed octopuses. In particular, the large presence of pygmy seahorses and wobbegong sharks is specific to Raja Ampat.
Another factor that makes Raja Ampat special is its location. Many of the dive sites are remote and untouched, offering an experience that feels far removed from more commercialized dive destinations.
3. The Best Time to Dive in Raja Ampat
Diving in Raja Ampat is possible year-round, but the best season is typically between October and April. This is the dry season, where visibility can reach up to 30 meters (100 feet), and the seas are calmer, allowing for easier travel between dive sites. Water temperatures remain fairly constant, ranging from 27°C to 30°C (81°F to 86°F).
4. Best Dive Sites in Raja Ampat
4.1 Cape Kri
Cape Kri is one of the most famous dive sites in the world, and for good reason. Here, a single dive can reward you with sightings of hundreds of species of fish, including massive schools of jacks, barracuda, and the occasional reef shark. The sheer variety and density of marine life make Cape Kri a must-dive site for anyone visiting Raja Ampat.
For me, the dives at Cape Kri were not the best I have done in Raja Ampat; during my dive the current was quite strong and tiring; apart from an eagle ray and a nice school of barracuda we did not see much. You know, the sea is not a menu from which you can choose and you always need luck.
4.2 Blue Magic
Blue Magic is a drift dive known for its frequent sightings of large pelagic species such as manta rays, tunas, and even the occasional whale shark. The dive site gets its name from the deep blue waters that surround the reef, offering excellent visibility. This is a site where the currents can be strong, so it is better suited for experienced divers.
4.3 Manta Sandy
As the name suggests, this dive site is the best place to see manta rays. These majestic creatures come here to feed and be cleaned by cleaner wrasses. The sandy bottom makes for easy diving, and it’s common to see multiple mantas gracefully soaring above you. Manta Sandy is also a great spot for underwater photographers, thanks to the slow-moving nature of the mantas.
The dive at Manta Sandy is simple, you immediately descend to a depth of 16 meters and wait, still on the sandy bottom; the current is quite strong, so it is best to stay as horizontal as possible and possibly hold on to some rocks; then you wait for the spectacle of the manta rays, which is unforgettable. Considering the low depth and the total absence of activity, the dive can last even more than an hour.
4.4 Misool
The island of Misool, in southern Raja Ampat, is famous for its incredible coral reefs. Diving here feels like floating through an underwater kaleidoscope, with soft corals in every color imaginable. Misool also offers a variety of dive types, from shallow reefs to deeper walls, making it suitable for divers of all experience levels.
4.5 Arborek Jetty
For those interested in macro photography, Arborek Jetty is a must-visit. The jetty itself is covered in vibrant coral, and you can expect to find small critters like nudibranchs, pygmy seahorses, and flamboyant cuttlefish. The shallow depth of this dive site makes it perfect for long, relaxing dives.
4.6 melissa's garden
My favorite. An endless landscape of coral, pinnacles of rock, a riot of life.
5. Types of Diving Available
5.1 Liveaboard Diving
Liveaboard diving is one of the best ways to experience Raja Ampat, as it allows you to explore a wider range of dive sites. Many of the best dive sites are far from the main islands, making liveaboard the most convenient option. Liveaboard trips can last anywhere from a few days to over a week, and most trips are fully inclusive of meals, dive guides, and equipment rentals.
When talking about cruises it is inevitable to talk about two aspects; on the one hand the presence of cruise ships is unlikely to benefit the ecosystem, on the other hand statistics say that cruise ships (all over the world, but certainly in this area) do not shine for safety; just search on Google the names of M.Y. Oceanic, Indo Siren, Mandarin Siren, Oceanic, Waow, to understand that safety problems on cruises are not at all rare.
5.2 Land-Based Diving
While liveaboards offer the most flexibility, land-based dive resorts are also an excellent option. Many resorts are located near some of the best dive sites, like the Dampier Strait, and offer day trips to nearby reefs. Some resorts also have house reefs, allowing you to dive directly from the shore. Furthermore, using a local facility instead of a cruise guarantees on one hand that you have more prepared local guides than those of the cruises, who are not necessarily from the area; furthermore, local dive centers contribute more to the conservation and protection of the marine park.
In my case, I chose this second option (Agusta Eco Resort) and was completely satisfied; every day we regularly reached each dive site in no more than an hour, often much less. The experience of sleeping in a bungalow lulled by the sound of the sea, overlooking a white lime beach teeming with hermit crabs with the possibility, at any time, of snorkeling among the corals in the company of blacktip sharks does not need too many comments: one of the most memorable experiences of my life.
6. Diving Conditions in Raja Ampat
6.1 Currents
Raja Ampat is known for its strong currents, particularly around the Dampier Strait. These currents are what bring in the nutrient-rich waters that support the region’s incredible biodiversity, but they can also make for challenging dives. Experienced divers will enjoy the thrill of drift diving here, but beginners should ensure they have adequate training or stick to more sheltered dive sites.
In my experience, I must say that I have almost never found particularly strong current conditions; in some cases, such as Cape Kri or Rufas, the current was decidedly sensitive and difficult to fight, but the fact that you could fin against the current already defines its strength; only at Manta Sandy was the current decidedly strong, but it was a requirement to see the manta rays and, having to limit yourself to staying on the seabed, this did not cause any complications; at The Passage we noted, from the boat, a very strong current, so strong as to create whirlpools, and we waited over an hour to then dive in conditions of total safety when the current had decreased. In no case did I find overwhelming currents, such as those for which Komodo is famous (perhaps this is also due to the dive center, which chose the dive sites based on our experience?).
6.2 Visibility
Visibility in Raja Ampat can vary depending on the season and dive site. During the dry season (October to April), visibility is at its best, often ranging between 20 to 30 meters (65 to 100 feet). However, even during the wet season, the visibility is still good, hovering around 10 to 15 meters (30 to 50 feet).
My visit was in the first week of January and at no point did I find myself feeling that the visibility was less than perfect, the only exceptions being the two dives at The Passage, which fall squarely into the "muck diving" category, where the visibility was around 3 metres.
6.3 Water Temperature
The water temperature in Raja Ampat is consistent throughout the year, ranging from 27°C to 30°C (81°F to 86°F) (consistently 30° C in January, in my experience). You won’t need more than a 3mm wetsuit for diving here, though some divers prefer a thicker wetsuit for longer dives or night dives.
There is no thermocline and the temperature is constant at any depth.
7.1 Large Marine Species
One of the most exciting aspects of diving in Raja Ampat is the opportunity to see large marine species. Manta rays are a common sight, especially around Manta Sandy. Reef sharks, such as blacktip and whitetip sharks, are also frequent visitors, just as it is very common to spot wobbegongs sharks.
7.2 Macro Life
Raja Ampat is also a paradise for macro lovers. Some of the most fascinating creatures to look for include pygmy seahorses, ghost pipefish, and various species of nudibranchs. Photographers will particularly enjoy the macro opportunities at dive sites like Arborek Jetty and the mangroves of Batanta.
Warning: Pygmy seahorses are small, and when I say small I mean really small, so if you are nearsighted and are going to Raja Ampat, I suggest getting a prescription mask.
7.3 Coral Reefs
The coral reefs in Raja Ampat are among the most diverse in the world. The region is home to over 500 species of coral, including vibrant hard and soft corals. The reefs are incredibly healthy, and you’ll often find yourself diving through tunnels of coral teeming with marine life.
8. Planning Your Trip
8.1 How to Get to Raja Ampat
Getting to Raja Ampat requires a bit of planning, as it is a remote destination. Most travelers fly into Sorong, the gateway to Raja Ampat. Sorong is accessible from Jakarta or Makassar with several domestic airlines offering flights. From Sorong, you’ll take a ferry or speedboat to Waisai, the capital of Raja Ampat, where most resorts and liveaboards depart from.
Plan on almost two days of travel to reach your destination; in Jakarta you will have to disembark and re-embark your luggage and take a local flight. The best company is Garuda, but Batik Air and Lion Air are also decent. In Jakarta I suggest keeping a minimum layover of 3 hours, otherwise you will not have time to collect your luggage, do the passport check, change terminals and re-embark your luggage. Once you arrive in Sorong (a small and inefficient airport where the wait for your luggage is eternal), you will still have to take the ferry, which takes about an hour and a half to get to destination.
Just to put things in perspective, the flight from Jakarta to Sorong crosses Indonesia from west to east, that is, almost 3 time zones...
For flight bookings, in addition to booking directly from the companies I mentioned, you can use Nusatrip.com which offers a service similar to Skyscanner for South East Asia.
8.2 Visa Requirements
Indonesia offers a visa-free entry for many nationalities for stays up to 30 days. If you plan to stay longer, you can apply for a 60-day visa upon arrival. Make sure to check the visa requirements for your nationality before traveling.
8.3 Travel Insurance
It is highly recommended to purchase comprehensive travel insurance that includes diving coverage. Raja Ampat is a remote destination, and in the case of a diving accident, evacuation could be costly. DAN (Divers Alert Network) offers excellent coverage specifically for divers.
Be aware that, as of September 2024, there is no decompression chamber in Raja Ampat, so be sure that your insurance covers the transport fees in case of accident.
8.4 cell signal
The main telephone company is Telkomsel. At the Jakarta airport you will find kiosks that sell SIM cards.
Staying at the Agusta Eco Resort I found the signal satisfactory.
9. Where to Stay in Raja Ampat
9.1 Liveaboard vs. Resort
As mentioned earlier, both liveaboards and land-based resorts offer excellent diving experiences. Liveaboards provide access to more remote dive sites, while resorts offer a more relaxed experience with options for non-divers.
9.2 Eco-Resorts
Many of the resorts in Raja Ampat are eco-friendly, which is important for preserving the fragile marine environment. Some of the top eco-resorts include:
- Misool Eco Resort: Located in the southern part of Raja Ampat, this resort is renowned for its commitment to sustainability and conservation.
- Agusta Eco Resort: Situated on a private island, this resort offers luxury accommodations while maintaining a focus on environmental stewardship (this was my choice and I had a wonderful time; in addition to the accommodation, simple but comfortable and characteristic, a mention goes to the cuisine, which combines characteristics of Indonesian and Italian cuisine, with excellent results).
10. Conservation and Sustainable Tourism
Raja Ampat is a protected marine area, and it’s essential for divers to be aware of their impact on the environment. Many resorts and liveaboards in the region are committed to sustainability and work closely with local communities to ensure that tourism benefits the people of Raja Ampat. Always practice responsible diving, such as not touching coral, keeping a safe distance from marine life, and using reef-safe sunscreen.
11. Costs of Diving in Raja Ampat
Diving in Raja Ampat can be expensive compared to other Southeast Asian dive destinations, largely due to its remote location. Liveaboard trips range from $200 to $600 per night, depending on the level of luxury and inclusiveness. Land-based resorts are slightly less expensive, with prices ranging from $150 to $400 per night.
It is advisable to look for offers in particular periods, such as promotions that are made at fairs; in my case, booking a year in advance and during the Covid period, the couple's stay at the Agusta Eco Resort cost just over 1,000 euros.
The cost of the marine park fee is around 50 euros.
Bottom line
Raja Ampat is a once-in-a-lifetime diving destination that offers unparalleled biodiversity, pristine coral reefs, and exhilarating dive sites. Whether you choose to explore the region by liveaboard or base yourself at a sustainable eco-resort, the underwater world of Raja Ampat will leave you with unforgettable memories.
Is Raja Ampat a diving paradise or is its recent fame due to marketing? Raja Ampat is a sensational destination that every diver should try at least once in their life; the underwater panoramas, overflowing with corals of every color and the rich underwater fauna, make it a destination of absolute world class.
Although some dive sites are characterized by the presence of currents, I believe that anyone with an experience of at least thirty dives and an Advanced certificate can dive in Raja Ampat.
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