Last visit: December 2021
My rating: 8/10
Visit duration: 2 hours
Introduction to the Belvedere Museum in Vienna
The Belvedere museum in Vienna is one of Europe's most prestigious museum complexes, renowned for its exceptional art collection, including the famous The Kiss by Gustav Klimt. Housed in a Baroque ensemble that combines architectural splendor with invaluable collections, the museum consists of two palaces—the Upper Belvedere and the Lower Belvedere—as well as the Belvedere 21, dedicated to contemporary art. A visit to the Belvedere is an immersion into Austria’s artistic and cultural heritage, with a particular focus on the movements of the Viennese Secession, Biedermeier, and Baroque.
In this post, I will focus solely on the visit to the Upper Belvedere.
History and Architecture: The Masterpiece of Johann Lucas von Hildebrandt
The Belvedere complex was originally conceived as the summer residence of Prince Eugene of Savoy, one of the most distinguished military leaders of the 17th century. Its construction, entrusted to architect Johann Lucas von Hildebrandt, perfectly embodies Austrian Baroque style, featuring symmetrical designs, terraced gardens, and lavishly decorated interiors.
The Upper Belvedere, the grandest structure in the complex, was intended for official ceremonies and today houses the museum's permanent collection. The Lower Belvedere, once the prince's private residence, still preserves its original frescoes and decorations and serves as a venue for temporary exhibitions. The garden connecting the two buildings follows the French style, with geometrically arranged flowerbeds and fountains reminiscent of the elegance of the Palace of Versailles.
The Heart of the Collection: Gustav Klimt and the Viennese Secession
The centerpiece of the Belvedere’s exhibition is undoubtedly the collection of paintings by Gustav Klimt, the undisputed master of the Viennese Secession. The Kiss, created between 1907 and 1908, is one of the most recognizable and admired artworks in the world. The use of gold leaf, the fusion of naturalism and abstraction, and the symbolic intensity of the piece make it an absolute masterpiece.
Alongside The Kiss, the museum holds other fundamental works by Klimt, such as Judith I, with its dazzling exaltation of the femme fatale (not included in the images below because, unfortunately, it was on loan for an exhibition during my visit—I hate when that happens...), and Portrait of Fritza Riedler, a remarkable example of his ornamental portrait style. These works illustrate Klimt’s stylistic evolution, from academic painting to the Byzantine and Japanese influences that define his Golden Phase.
Modern and Contemporary Art: From Expressionism to Today
In addition to Klimt, who remains the most celebrated artist in the collection, the Belvedere also features works by Egon Schiele and Oskar Kokoschka, key figures of Austrian Expressionism.
Schiele’s canvases, characterized by their nervous lines and the expressionistic distortion of bodies, convey an extraordinary emotional intensity. His tormented figures, often depicted in contorted poses, reveal a deep psychological sensitivity and a profound reflection on the human condition.
The Belvedere as a Cultural Institution
Beyond being a museum, the Belvedere plays a crucial role in the preservation and promotion of Austria’s artistic heritage. Its curatorial activities include scientific research, restoration, and the dissemination of art through educational programs and international exhibitions. The museum collaborates with prestigious institutions worldwide to foster dialogue between different artistic movements and to offer new interpretations of the works in its collection.
Tips for Visiting and Practical Information
The Belvedere is a magnificent museum, both for the outstanding quality of the artworks on display and for the exhibition setting. If there is one minor drawback, it would be the limited number of works exhibited—although they are of the highest caliber. The visit of the Upper Belvedere unfolds across just five or maybe six rooms, each containing masterpieces of absolute value. Even when taking the necessary time to appreciate each piece, the total visit duration does not exceed three hours.
During my visit, which took place during the Christmas holidays, the museum was not crowded at all, allowing me to enjoy each artwork without competing with other visitors.
The ideal itinerary starts at the Upper Belvedere, then moves down through the gardens to the Lower Belvedere, and optionally concludes at Belvedere 21.
For those who have visited and loved the Belvedere, I recommend another museum that is often overlooked in major itineraries but is conceptually linked to the Belvedere in terms of exhibition aesthetics, historical approach, and displayed artworks: the Neue Galerie in New York.
Opening Hours
The Upper Belvedere is open daily, generally from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM.
Tickets
There are various ticket options available, ranging from single-entry tickets to combination tickets that allow access to multiple sections of the museum.
How to Get There
The museum is easily accessible by public transportation, including trams and buses. It is also within walking distance of Vienna Hauptbahnhof, the city’s main railway station.
Conclusion
The Belvedere Museum in Vienna is an essential stop for anyone looking to deepen their understanding of Austrian art history and immerse themselves in world-famous masterpieces. From Baroque grandeur to Klimt’s aesthetic revolution, from Schiele’s introspective works to contemporary avant-garde movements, the Belvedere offers a journey through the centuries, enriched by an extraordinary architectural and landscape setting. An experience that seamlessly combines art, history, and culture, making the museum one of the most fascinating places in the Austrian capital.
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