Last visit: April 2022
Duration of the visit: A full day from dawn to dusk
My rating: A MUST-SEE
Petra: Historical Overview
Nestled in the heart of Jordan, carved into the red desert cliffs, Petra is a masterpiece of ancient engineering and architecture. A journey to this rock-hewn city is not just a stroll through ruins but an immersion into centuries of history, culture, and mystery. This legendary city, sculpted from the rose-colored stone of the Jordanian desert, is one of the most fascinating wonders of the ancient world. Located at a crucial commercial crossroads, Petra was founded by the Nabataeans between the 6th and 4th centuries BCE and flourished as a trading hub due to its strategic position along caravan routes connecting Arabia, Egypt, and Syria.
The Foundation and Nabataean Rule
The Nabataeans were a nomadic Arab people who, by controlling the trade routes between Arabia, Egypt, and Syria, transformed Petra into a thriving metropolis. Pliny the Elder, writing in the 1st century CE, described the Nabataeans as skilled and independent merchants, able to withstand the pressures of the great empires of their time. Under their rule, Petra became an economic and cultural center, showcasing architectural influences from Greek, Roman, and Egyptian styles.
Architecture and Construction Techniques
Petra's architecture is an extraordinary synthesis of various cultural influences. Its most famous monument, Al-Khazneh (The Treasury), clearly reflects Hellenistic style, featuring Corinthian columns and decorative elements typical of Greek art. The temples and rock-cut tombs also incorporate Egyptian and Mesopotamian elements, highlighting the city's cosmopolitan nature.
Archaeologists believe that the buildings were constructed using a combination of excavation and rock-shaping techniques. Stonemasons would start from the top of the sandstone cliffs and gradually carve downward, sculpting the facades with remarkable precision.
Petra’s Water Management System
One of Petra’s most revolutionary aspects is its advanced water management system. Located in an arid desert with minimal rainfall, the Nabataeans developed an intricate network of cisterns, channels, and dams to collect and distribute water. This system allowed the city to sustain a large population and provided essential water supplies for passing caravans. Even today, remnants of these channels can be seen throughout the archaeological site, offering insight into the city's sophisticated infrastructure.
Decline and Abandonment
With the expansion of the Roman Empire in the 2nd century CE, Petra gradually lost its commercial prominence. In the 6th century, a devastating earthquake destroyed significant portions of its water infrastructure, accelerating the city's decline. Over time, Petra was gradually abandoned and remained forgotten for centuries, known only to local Bedouin tribes.
Rediscovery in the 19th Century
In 1812, Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt, disguised as a Muslim pilgrim, managed to gain access to the "Lost City." His discovery sparked great interest in Europe, leading to a long era of archaeological exploration, which continues to unveil new secrets of Petra to this day.
Today, Petra is one of the most visited archaeological sites in the world and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985.
How to Get to Petra (Jordan)
The archaeological site of Petra is located near the town of Wadi Musa, which serves as the main gateway for visitors. There are several ways to reach Petra:
From Amman: About three hours by car, either via the Desert Highway or the more scenic King’s Highway.
From Aqaba: Approximately two hours by car.
With organized tours: Various travel agencies offer guided day trips to Petra.
By public transport: The JETT Bus departs from Amman every morning, arriving directly in Wadi Musa.
The Jordan Pass: A Cost-Effective Option for Tourists
For travelers planning to visit Petra along with other attractions in Jordan, the Jordan Pass is a convenient option. This online tourist package grants entry to over 40 sites across the country, including Petra, Jerash, and Wadi Rum. Additionally, the pass waives the visa fee for tourists staying at least three nights in Jordan, offering significant savings.
The price varies depending on the length of stay in Petra:
70 JOD for a one-day visit
75 JOD for two days
80 JOD for three days
Opting for the Jordan Pass not only helps save money but also simplifies access to Jordan’s most important tourist sites.
Interacting with Locals and Avoiding Scams
Jordanians are known for their hospitality, and Petra offers many opportunities to engage with the local population. The Bedouins, in particular, provide guided excursions and share fascinating stories about the ancient city, adding to the authenticity of the experience. However, visitors should be aware of some questionable commercial practices.
Some common scams include:
Overpriced camel and donkey rides
Persistent vendors selling souvenirs at exorbitant prices
Children asking for money under false pretenses
To avoid unpleasant situations, it is advisable to agree on prices in advance, compare different offers, and be cautious of deals that seem too good to be true. Being polite but firm will help manage these interactions smoothly, ensuring a more enjoyable and stress-free visit.
One-Day Itinerary in Petra
Main Entrance: The Siq and The Treasury
The traditional entry into Petra is through the Siq, a 1.2 km-long natural gorge that gradually immerses visitors in an enchanting atmosphere. As you walk through, the towering sandstone walls, reaching up to 80 meters, create stunning light effects. After approximately 20 minutes, the breathtaking view of Al-Khazneh (The Treasury) appears unexpectedly. This monumental 39-meter-high rock-carved façade was likely the tomb of an important Nabataean ruler.
The Street of Facades and the Nabataean Theater
Beyond The Treasury, a vast open space leads to the Street of Facades, lined with Nabataean tombs and temples. A short walk ahead brings you to the Nabataean Theater, entirely carved into the rock and capable of accommodating up to 8,500 spectators. Here, the influence of Roman architecture is evident, reflecting the gradual integration of the two cultures.
The Cardo Maximus and the Temple of the Winged Lions
Walking along the Cardo Maximus, the ancient Roman colonnaded street, visitors can admire the remnants of temples and plazas, which once showcased Petra’s commercial significance. Among the most notable ruins, the Temple of the Winged Lions stands out for its imposing structure and the refinement of its architectural details, making it a must-see stop.
The Ascent to the Monastery (Ad-Deir)
One of the most challenging yet rewarding experiences in Petra is the hike to the Monastery (Ad-Deir), requiring visitors to climb around 800 rock-carved steps.
When I visited Petra in late April, the temperature was around 28°C (82°F). I saw young, muscular travelers struggling along the steep path, proving that while the ascent is breathtaking in more ways than one, a reasonable level of fitness is highly recommended.
However, the effort is well worth it—at the top, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views and the awe-inspiring sight of this monumental structure, similar in design to The Treasury, but even more imposing.
Alternative Route: Entering Petra via the Back Door Trail
A less crowded but equally scenic option is accessing Petra from Little Petra (Siq al-Barid) via a hiking trail that leads directly to the Monastery. This route, known as the Back Door Trail, allows visitors to avoid the crowds of the Siq and enjoy a nature-immersed journey, offering stunning views of the surrounding mountainous landscape.
I personally took the Little Petra route, convinced by a local who insisted on driving me from the parking lot to the entrance of Little Petra in his Jeep—naturally, for a fee. This path has both advantages and drawbacks, but overall, I wouldn’t recommend it.
Advantages of the Little Petra Route
✅ One-way, mostly downhill: Unlike the main route, which involves a tough ascent to the Monastery, this trail descends almost entirely toward Petra.
✅ No need to backtrack: If you take the main route via the Siq, once you reach the Monastery, you must retrace your steps to exit, making the return trip exhausting and repetitive. With the Little Petra route, you never see the same place twice.
The Major Drawback
❌ The Treasury loses its magical reveal: Taking this route means The Treasury (Al-Khazneh) is the last thing you see. While that may sound good in theory, the breathtaking surprise of seeing The Treasury emerge through the narrow gorge of the Siq is completely lost. The approach to The Treasury from the Back Door Trail is far less impressive, making the experience much less dramatic.
Despite the physical challenge, I strongly recommend following the traditional path starting from the Siq. This way, you experience the iconic reveal of The Treasury, which is truly one of the most unforgettable moments of visiting Petra.
For reference, taking the Little Petra route and hiking through the mountains to reach the Monastery from the "back" took about two hours. The rest of the day was spent walking from the Monastery to the Treasury and exiting through the Siq. Just exiting the Siq alone takes about an hour. By the end of the day, my step counter recorded 18 km (20,000 steps)—a long and tiring journey!
Another crucial aspect to consider is how the light changes across different areas of Petra throughout the day. Since I took the reverse route, I saw the Monastery in the morning, fully illuminated by the sun, and the Treasury in the evening, when the light was already fading.
I personally didn’t mind experiencing these landmarks under those lighting conditions, but it’s a subjective preference. Many visitors might prefer to see The Treasury in the morning, bathed in golden sunlight, and the Monastery near sunset, when the warm tones enhance its monumental beauty.
If lighting conditions matter to you, it's worth planning your route accordingly.
Regardless of whether you follow the main route or the reverse one, here are some essential tips for a comfortable visit:
✔️ Wear your most comfortable shoes – while hiking boots are not strictly necessary, a pair of good sneakers will do just fine.
✔️ Bring plenty of water and some snacks – There are places to buy food and drinks inside the site, but not many, and considering the intense sun and long walking distances, you will never have enough water.
Planning ahead and being well-prepared will ensure you get the best possible experience at Petra!
Time Required to Visit Petra
When planning my trip, I initially allocated two days for Petra before heading to Aqaba and Wadi Rum. However, after spending one full day exploring, I realized a second day wasn’t necessary (and instead took advantage of an extra day snorkeling in the Red Sea).
By starting early in the morning and utilizing the entire day until sunset, it’s possible to see all the major landmarks of Petra. That said, I must point out that in a single day, I neither had the energy nor the time to hike to the elevated viewpoints where visitors capture the famous Instagram shots of Petra from above.
✔️ One full day: Enough to see everything essential, feel satisfied, and not need another day.
✔️ Two days: Useful for optional experiences, such as climbing to panoramic viewpoints or attending Petra by Night.
✔️ Three days: Recommended only for trekking enthusiasts looking to explore off-the-beaten-path areas (which I already covered in my 10-hour hike from Little Petra to the Siq).
Visiting Petra in one day requires arriving early—I entered at 8 AM, but some visitors start as early as 6 AM. This means it’s best to stay overnight in Wadi Musa the night before.
Petra by Night
One experience I skipped due to exhaustion and mixed reviews was Petra by Night. This event, held three times a week (Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday), allows visitors to see The Treasury illuminated by hundreds of candles.
Opinions are highly polarized—some describe it as magical, while others dismiss it as an overcrowded tourist trap. I was persuaded by the latter group and chose to skip it.
If you plan to:
Hike to elevated viewpoints
Attend Petra by Night
Then you may need two days to fully enjoy the experience.
Best Season to Visit Petra
The best time to visit Petra is during spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November).
✔️ Spring & Autumn: Pleasant temperatures (15°C to 30°C), making walking more comfortable.
❌ Summer: Extremely hot, often exceeding 40°C, which can make hiking unbearable.
Winter: A viable option, but keep in mind the risks of rain and cold temperatures, which can drop below 5°C at night.
While off-season visits offer a quieter experience, winter’s shorter daylight hours can make it difficult to explore all of Petra’s key sites in one day. Additionally, flash floods have historically been a danger in Petra, as the site has been flooded multiple times in the past.
The Impact of Mass Tourism
Petra’s global popularity has had a significant impact on the site.
Daily crowds in the thousands cause erosion of the rock-cut structures.
The use of camels and donkeys for tourist rides contributes to wear and tear on the site’s fragile ground.
The sheer number of tourists diminishes some of the site's mystical and awe-inspiring atmosphere.
While Petra remains a breathtaking wonder, it is not an isolated, tranquil place—expect crowds, vendors, and commercialized experiences at key landmarks.
Final Verdict
It’s difficult to put into words the emotion of walking through Petra—its undulating red mountains, surreal landscapes, and awe-inspiring history leave a profound impact.
After two hours of hiking, the moment The Monastery suddenly appears, carved directly into the rock, feels almost unreal.
Petra is a place that feels otherworldly, where history manifests itself in overwhelming grandeur. It exudes an aura of mystery and reverence, and it’s almost inconceivable that such a spectacular city—entirely sculpted into the mountains—could have remained hidden from the world for centuries.
While exploring, take a moment to let your gaze wander, imagine what this alien-like city looked like in its prime, and reflect on the fragility of human fortunes. A day in Petra will leave you with unforgettable memories—from the first sight of The Monastery and The Treasury to the dramatic colors of the Roman Theater, and the towering walls of the Siq.
If you haven’t planned your visit to Petra yet, it’s time to do so—few places on Earth deserve to be seen as soon as possible quite like this one.
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