Type of cuisine: sushi
Last visit: December 2023
My rating: 8/10
Address: 4 Chome-2-9 Nishiazabu, Minato City, Tokyo 106-0031, Japan
Price: €€€€€/€€€€€
Reservation: Pocket concierge
Nishi Azabu Kamikura, a hidden gem in the vibrant district of Minato, Tokyo, offers one of the most refined and intimate omakase experiences in the city. With its minimalist aesthetic and focus on culinary artistry, Kamikura combines the centuries-old tradition of Japanese omakase with modern innovation, providing diners with an exceptional and memorable meal.
The location
When I say that Kamikura is a "hidden" gem I'm not kidding... to find it you will have to wander around the neighborhood asking for information to the locals, who do not necessarily speak English or know the place.
The place is hidden behind this door with no signs; in fact, to make things even more difficult, the name of a place is there, written on the lamp, but it is of another restaurant; so, in order to find it, follow Google Maps and THEN search for this door.
The Setting and Atmosphere
Before delving into the courses, it’s worth noting the environment at Kamikura. Tucked away in Nishi Azabu, one of Tokyo’s quieter yet upscale neighborhoods, Kamikura boasts an elegant yet understated interior. The décor is minimalistic, with clean lines and subtle lighting, creating a calming atmosphere that feels both exclusive and welcoming. The seating arrangement, primarily at a wooden counter, allows guests to have an intimate view of the chef's meticulous preparation. This open interaction enhances the omakase experience, allowing guests to witness the artistry that goes into every dish.
The omakase journey at Nishi Azabu Kamikura is an exploration of seasonal ingredients, expertly prepared with a keen attention to texture, flavor, and presentation. Each course is designed not only to showcase the freshest seafood and produce but also to tell a story of Japanese tradition and culinary mastery.
The Omakase Experience
1. Appetizers and Small Bites
The meal typically begins with a series of small appetizers designed to awaken the palate. One standout appetizer is the seasonal amuse-bouche, which changes frequently depending on what is freshest at the market. This might include items like lightly grilled matsutake mushrooms, known for their woody fragrance and slightly chewy texture, or a delicate serving of tofu infused with yuzu and topped with a dollop of fresh wasabi. These starters are a perfect balance of simplicity and complexity, offering a preview of the intricate flavors to come.
Another common starter at Kamikura is the marinated monkfish liver, often referred to as "foie gras of the sea" for its rich, buttery texture and umami-packed flavor. This dish is served with a ponzu sauce, adding a citrusy brightness that cuts through the richness of the liver, balancing the dish perfectly.
2. Sashimi Course
The sashimi course at Kamikura is where the omakase experience truly shines. Every piece of fish is sliced with precision and served at the optimal temperature, ensuring that each bite is as fresh as possible. Depending on the season, you may be served otoro (fatty tuna), hirame (flounder), or aori-ika (bigfin reef squid). What makes the sashimi course at Kamikura so special is the attention to detail in both the selection and preparation of the seafood. The chef carefully explains each piece, detailing where it was sourced and the best way to enjoy it.
One particularly memorable sashimi is the shima-aji (striped jack), a prized fish in Japan for its rich flavor and smooth texture. The fish is served with a side of freshly grated wasabi and hand-made soy sauce, elevating the natural taste of the fish without overpowering it. The omakase experience at Kamikura ensures that the sashimi is more than just a serving of raw fish—it's an embodiment of freshness, respect for ingredients, and culinary artistry.
3. Seasonal Delicacies
A major highlight of Kamikura's omakase menu is its dedication to seasonal ingredients. During the autumn months, for instance, dishes might feature autumnal specialties like kabocha squash or saba (mackerel), prepared with care and often incorporating local herbs and vegetables to complement the fish's natural flavors.
The grilled nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch) is another seasonal delicacy, prized for its rich flavor and tender, fatty texture. This fish is carefully grilled over binchotan charcoal, imparting a subtle smokiness that complements the fatty richness of the fish. It's served with a touch of sea salt and a squeeze of sudachi lime, which adds a burst of acidity that cuts through the richness, making each bite feel balanced and harmonious.
Another seasonal favorite might be uni (sea urchin) served atop freshly steamed rice or as part of a nigiri. The quality of the uni at Kamikura is unparalleled, offering a creamy, slightly briny flavor that melts in your mouth. The chef may also prepare it with a touch of shiso leaf, adding a refreshing herbal note that enhances the umami-rich flavor of the uni.
4. Nigiri Course
The progression to the nigiri course is seamless, and it showcases the chef’s expertise in sushi-making. Each piece of nigiri is a work of art, with the rice perfectly seasoned and molded to complement the fish without overpowering it. Whether it’s the melt-in-your-mouth otoro or the briny sweetness of akagai (ark shell clam), every piece is balanced in terms of texture, temperature, and seasoning.
One particularly memorable piece is the kohada (gizzard shad), which is often marinated to bring out its distinctively sharp, almost tangy flavor. Kohada is a difficult fish to work with, and its inclusion in an omakase menu is a testament to the chef’s skill. Another standout is the kuruma-ebi (Japanese tiger prawn), served freshly grilled and still warm, offering a sweetness that pairs beautifully with the slightly vinegared rice.
5. Cooked Courses
While raw fish is often the star of an omakase menu, the cooked courses at Kamikura are equally noteworthy. The grilled wagyu beef, often served towards the end of the meal, is a luxurious, melt-in-your-mouth experience. The beef is cooked over charcoal, giving it a slight smokiness that complements the meat's rich marbling. It's usually served with a side of seasonal vegetables and a light miso-based sauce, allowing the natural flavors of the beef to shine.
Another cooked dish that stands out is the chawanmushi, a savory egg custard that is often infused with seafood such as uni or shrimp. The texture is silky smooth, and the flavors are delicate yet profound, providing a comforting and satisfying end to the savory portion of the meal.
Service
The service at Nishi Azabu Kamikura is impeccable, with attentive staff who ensure that every detail is perfect, from the pace of the meal to the explanation of each dish. The chef's interaction with guests adds a personal touch to the experience, making diners feel involved in the culinary process.
Bottom line
I visited Nishi Azabu Kamikura during my first week in Japan, during which I also had the goal of trying a high-end sushi restaurant; after a long search, the choice fell on Kamikura because, according to the reviews, it was the best in terms of quality/price without having to mortgage the house (in conclusion, drinking a lot, a lot of sake, which was recommended with a friendly smile by the chef at each course) the expense was just under 200 euros per person, while some luxury restaurants in Ginza can reach 500 euros per person.
As said extensively before, dinner at Kamikura (as, I assume, in any luxury omakase restaurant) is an unforgettable experience; Japanese hospitality is legendary and fully confirmed by the service; not only does all the restaurant staff do everything possible to make the customer feel completely at ease, but the chef is as good at entertaining and welcoming the customer, accompanying him throughout the dinner, as he is at preparing the fish-based delicacies.
If I had to find a flaw, which probably isn't one but is just the consequence of some cultural bias, the food, although sensational, doesn't fully correspond to expectations. Kmikura's sushi is extremely delicate and very careful not to overdo it with sauces and condiments; it's almost a minimalist experience, probably aimed at enhancing the natural flavor of the fish as much as possible. The chef himself, in presenting each dish, insisted a lot on highlighting the consistency, whether crunchy or melting, rather than the taste of the preparation; at first glance I started to think that, simply, Japanese taste was different from Western taste and that the sushi we are used to in the West (often drowned in condiments) is not authentic sushi, except that the most popular sushi I had tried a few days before in Osaka, a restaurant frequented by Japanese, was much more similar to that known in the West. Despite this prejudice of mine, which led me to expect a different meal than what I actually received, the omakase dinner at Makimura is a superlative experience, both on a sensorial and aesthetic level.
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