Duration of the visit: 4 hours
My rating: Worth Seeing Once, But Bring Some Maalox
Mont Saint Michel is one of France's most iconic tourist destinations and a symbol of Normandy, known for its abbey perched atop a rocky islet surrounded by vast stretches of sand and water. The tides, which periodically separate it from the mainland, create an imposing and majestic natural spectacle.
The ocean assaulting the coast, the scent of salt in the air, the profile of the medieval rock suddenly emerging on the horizon as you approach the shore—all the ingredients for a romantic Norman experience are there. Yet, Mont Saint Michel has fallen victim to its own allure, transformed from a place of silence, wonder, and reflection into a Barnum circus of mass consumption.
History
Mont Saint Michel has a history rooted in the Middle Ages, a time when the rocky islet off the coast of Normandy became one of the most recognizable places in Europe.
Its history officially began in 708, when Aubert, Bishop of Avranches—whether dulled by the use of intoxicants or sharpened by entrepreneurial instinct—claimed to have had a vision of the Archangel Michael asking him to build a sanctuary at the top of the mount. The site was then consecrated to the archangel’s worship, and an initial church was built, marking the beginning of the site’s transformation into an important pilgrimage destination.
Over the centuries, Mont Saint Michel grew in both spiritual and strategic significance. During the 9th and 10th centuries, when Viking raids threatened the French coasts, the abbey also became a defensive stronghold. Starting from the 10th century, Benedictine monks settled on the island and began expanding the monastic complex, giving rise to an architecture that would undergo numerous transformations in the following centuries.
Architecture of the Abbey
The architecture of Mont Saint Michel's abbey is the result of centuries of construction, destruction, and reconstruction, reflecting the site's evolution and stylistic changes over time. The monastic complex, also known as "La Merveille" (The Marvel), consists of a series of buildings constructed between the 13th and 16th centuries, spread over multiple levels to adapt to the irregular shape of the rocky islet.
The most distinctive element of the abbey is undoubtedly the abbey church, located at the top of the island. The church, built in the Romanesque style and later expanded with Gothic elements, towers majestically over the structures below. The main nave, with its high ribbed vaults and stained glass windows filtering in light, is an extraordinary example of Gothic architecture, contrasting with the older Romanesque parts characterized by rounded arches and massive walls.
The architectural complexity is accentuated by the multi-level layout of the buildings. The abbey was designed to make the most of the limited space on the islet, with a series of terraces, internal courtyards, and halls arranged to create a veritable citadel.
Among the most famous rooms is the "Salle des Chevaliers" (Hall of the Knights), a vast space used by the monks for daily activities, featuring columns and arches that evoke the structure of a miniature cathedral.
Another significant architectural element is the cloister, a peaceful and contemplative area offering a spectacular view of the sea and surrounding bay. The cloister is adorned with elegant columns and features a carved wooden roof that contrasts with the stone walls, creating a sense of harmony and lightness.
The Charm of the Tides
One of the most fascinating experiences associated with Mont Saint Michel is the phenomenon of the tides. In a regular and majestic rhythm, the water recedes and returns, exposing a vast stretch of sand that seems to extend endlessly. During low tide, the bay appears almost surreal: an immense expanse of wet sand reflecting the sunlight, with the abbey emerging in the distance like a mirage and streams of water tracing lush patterns in the sand. It is impossible not to be captivated by this natural spectacle, which continuously transforms the landscape and gives the impression that the islet is floating between sky and earth.
However, if this phenomenon is one of the main attractions for tourists, it is also true that with each change of the tide, Mont Saint Michel loses some of its original mystery.
The very walkway that connects the islet to the mainland, whose construction was necessary for the safety of the ever-growing crowds flocking to the tourist attraction, is the first true violation of these places. Not only does it mar the landscape, obstructing the spectacular view of the bay reclaimed from the sea without allowing an unobstructed view, but it also brutally severs the delicate continuity between sea and land that was the essence of the abbey. Walking along the walkway amid the flow of the crowd armed with selfie sticks feels like being merchandise on a conveyor belt, funneled toward the cash registers of the souvenir shops clogging the abbey’s spaces.
Yet, despite the frustration with this mindless chaos that so starkly contrasts with what was originally intended to be a place of contemplation and thought, one cannot help but be moved by the sight of the structure emerging from the sand and tides, the power of the sea that rhythmically recedes and advances, and the breathtaking vastness of the open spaces.
The Abbey Walls and the Sand Below
The abbey of Mont Saint Michel, with its walls that seem to sink into the sand during low tide, is an extraordinary example of medieval architecture harmoniously blending with the surrounding landscape. The tall fortified walls, built to withstand military assaults and the force of the ocean, convey a sense of grandeur and protection. It is easy to imagine the pilgrims of the past, arriving weary, crossing the bay on foot to reach this isolated sanctuary, with the awareness of being in a place where spirituality and nature converge.
Today, however, the atmosphere is quite different. The walls, which once inspired reverence and awe, are now enveloped by the incessant sterile noise of tourists. One can almost sense a feeling of disorientation, as if the abbey itself can no longer maintain its dignity in the face of the constant waves of visitors. Although the walls appear physically solid, it is as if they are fading in spirit, unable to withstand the wear and tear of the modern era; the fortress that resisted the attacks of armies now collapses in the presence of the hordes of tourists.
The Steep Climb to the Abbey
To reach the abbey, one must ascend a series of narrow and steep streets, lined with ancient stone houses. With a bit of imagination, one can try to picture what it must have been like to climb these alleys that seem to lead towards the sky, before they were dotted with candy shops, restaurants, and kitschy souvenir stands.
Commercialization is rampant, and the spiritual essence of the site has surrendered to consumerism.
The Abbey and the Church: Lost Silence and Spectacle
Upon reaching the top, the abbey reveals itself in all its majesty. The church interiors, with their high Gothic naves and stained glass windows filtering an ethereal light, still manage to evoke a certain sense of wonder. Perhaps this is the only place that can impose some awe upon the dull mass of visitors.
Once outside the abbey, a terrace seemingly suspended in the sky offers a breathtaking view of the bay and the movement of the tides.
A Place Ruined by Mass Tourism
There is no doubt that Mont Saint Michel is a victim of its own success. Every year, millions of people visit to admire what is described as one of the most beautiful places in the world. But what happens when a place becomes so popular that it loses its authenticity? Mass tourism has transformed Mont Saint Michel into a sort of medieval theme park, where everything seems organized to meet the needs of visitors rather than to preserve the site's history and spirituality. Disneyland Paris is not far away, and when visiting Mont Saint Michel, the perception wavers: this could truly be a papier-mâché attraction, and at any moment, an entertainer dressed as Mickey Mouse could appear.
The Loss of Authenticity: "Mais Où Sont les Neiges d'Antan?"
Looking at Mont Saint Michel today, it's natural to recall the verses of François Villon: "Mais où sont les neiges d'antan?" ("But where are the snows of yesteryear?"). This expression, evoking a melancholic nostalgia for what has been lost and dissolved in the past, is especially fitting for a place that has forever lost its purity and majesty and can never be seen again as past generations did. Their experiences, far from the noise, crowds, and crass consumerism, are now a faded memory, just like the snow that melts with the changing seasons.
A Bitter Conclusion
Visiting Mont Saint Michel today means confronting a contradictory reality: on the one hand, the incomparable natural and architectural beauty that has fascinated for centuries; on the other, the feeling that something essential has been irretrievably lost. The tides, the shifting sands, the abbey towering above the island—all of this continues to exert an irresistible attraction. But the experience, as it is offered today, seems to be more about quickly consuming images and emotions rather than having an authentic encounter with history and spirituality.
It is likely that it will never be possible to see Mont Saint Michel as past generations did: a place of solitude and reflection, far from the chaos of modern life. Perhaps in the future, drastic measures will need to be taken to preserve what little remains of its authenticity, but the risk is that it may already be too late.
Just a few minutes away from Mont Saint Michel lies the Moidrey Windmill; it's worth a 5-minute stop to enjoy a postcard-perfect landscape and take some photos.
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