Japanese Knives in Tokyo: A Journey Through the Blades of Kappabashi and Tsukiji

Tokyo is a city that surprises with its ability to combine the ultramodern with the deepest artisan tradition. If you are a chef, a cutlery enthusiast or a lover of the perfect cut, Tokyo is a true pilgrimage. In particular, two districts of the city offer privileged access to the excellence of Japanese blades: Kappabashi and Tsukiji .

Two souls, two philosophies, two very different — but complementary — shopping experiences. On one hand, the pragmatic and technical Kappabashi , the beating heart of professional kitchen utensils. On the other, the vibrant and ritual Tsukiji , where the blade becomes an extension of the art of sushi.

Disclaimer: I am not a knife expert, what follows is a summary of what I learned by doing a little research on the web before leaving for Japan with the intention of buying a pair of quality knives and the little I understood in the difficult dialogue with the sellers in Tokyo.

Kappabashi: The Inexhaustible Offer

Visit duration: 2 hours

Kappabashi is a long street entirely lined with shops specializing in every aspect of professional cooking: pots, griddles, graters, wagashi molds, sushi chopsticks, ceramics... and of course knives. This is Kappabashi , just a few minutes from Asakusa. It is the neighborhood where restaurant professionals - Japanese and international - come to stock up on reliable, durable, often customizable tools.

Here you can find blades made by long-established workshops such as Kamata Hakensha , Tsubaya or Kama-Asa ; in most shops they also speak English (generally more broken English than real English, but enough to understand each other).

For those who are not experts in knives it is really difficult to orient oneself, especially because the offer is literally immense, both in terms of the number of shops and the number of models, types and qualities of blades and metals.

In my case, after having entered practically all the shops, my choice fell on the Union Commerce shop of which I had read numerous good reviews for the quality/price ratio; I purchased two stainless steel knives, whose maintenance is undoubtedly easier, even if they do not have the artisanal charm of carbon steel knives; another aspect on which I suggest you think about in advance, because at the time of purchase it will be a further source of embarrassment, is whether to choose the Western handle (with a circular/elliptical section) or the Japanese handle (with a rectangular section) which, for a layman like me, is aesthetically more characteristic and typically Japanese, but less ergonomic, especially on occasions in which you happen to use the knife for an entire afternoon.

Below is a photo of the winner of my personal selection; as a measure, this toy cost about 200 euros.

Aside from knives, Kappabashi is a wonderland for lovers of oriental cuisine and/or crafts (if you are a lover of oriental cuisine AND crafts and go to Kappabashi with a credit card, you could really hurt yourself); among the purchases made in Kappabashi that inevitably cluttered and weighed down my luggage on the way back, there were obviously some ceramics (such as soy sauce cups), a set of sake glasses, and personalized sushi chopsticks, bought in a wonderful artisan shop whose location I unfortunately don't remember, but it was more or less here .

Tsukiji: the specialization

Moving towards the bay, we find the old Tsukiji fish market. Although the wholesale part has moved to Toyosu, the outside area — the Jogai Shijo — is still alive and authentic. Here the knife is not just a tool, but a cultural prosthesis of the sushi chef. Shops like Aritsugu , Masamoto or Sugimoto sell razor-sharp blades, perfect for cutting sashimi and filleting fish.

The atmosphere is different: less technical, more sensorial. You enter the shops attracted by the patina of time on the display cases, you observe with respect the hands of the craftsman that caress the steel, and you understand that here you are not just buying a tool, but a relationship with the raw material .

When, a few days before visiting Tsukiji, I treated myself to an omakase dinner at Nishi Azabu Kamikura , during dinner I awkwardly asked the chef if his spectacular knife that he handled with unparalleled mastery and impalpable deference came from Kappabashi, which from what I had read was a supplier to the best sushi chefs in Tokyo; his reaction was a mixture of hilarity, tenderness and nationalistic haughtiness... " Western chefs go to Kappabashi, I buy my knives in Tsukiji ", was the reply.

If I had to suggest to an average Western tourist whether to buy their knife in Tsukiji or Kappabashi I would objectively be embarrassed; the offer is most likely superior to Kappabashi, while in Tsukiji, even if there is no shortage of knife shops, the available space is mainly given over to shops selling every possible food product; as for the quality, I defer to the judgment of my chef, but these are differences that I do not think a tourist is capable of appreciating; I, as I said, bought my knives in Kappabashi and I am fully satisfied with them; they are jewels that arouse admiration every time I show them off and transmit vibrations of pleasure up my forearm every time I sink the blade into a slice of tuna or a Florentine steak.

If I really had to find differences between the two markets, Kappabashi, having a much larger offer both in terms of quantity and variety is the place to go if you want to have a wide choice, from the generalist knife, to the large butcher knife, to the very thin blade for filleting fish; Tsukiji, while still having a wide choice, is probably a market more aimed at sushi chefs.

The right blade for every hand

In Japan, the knife is never “one size fits all”. Each shape, each blade is born for a specific gesture, calibrated on an ingredient and a technique.

Universal blades, for generalist cooking

• The Gyuto (牛刀) is the equivalent of the Western chef's knife: long, versatile, suitable for meat and vegetables.

• The more compact Santoku (三徳包丁) is the “knife of the three virtues” — meat, fish and vegetables.

• The Petty , small and precise, is perfect for finishing, peeling or fine portioning work.

They are all double-bevel knives (ryōba) , suitable for both right- and left-handed people, and recommended for those seeking versatility without sacrificing cutting quality.

The specialist blades of Japanese tradition

When you enter the world of classical Japanese cuisine , things change. Here, single-bevel knives (kataba) dominate, designed to enhance a clean, sharp cut without tearing; single-bevel knives are sharpened on only one side of the blade and are therefore divided into knives for right-handed and left-handed people.

Among the specialized blades we can mention:

• The Yanagiba (柳刃) is long, thin, designed for sashimi: a cut, a slice, a work of art.

• The Deba (出刃), heavy and massive, is used for filleting fish or cutting small bones.

• The Usuba (薄刃), with its rectangular blade, is the king of vegetable cutting in kaiseki cuisine.

These knives require more study, more practice, and a conscious hand. But they can repay with unmatched precision.

In the great variety of models available, you will notice that a non-negligible share is represented by damask blades (these are blades characterized by wavy decorative motifs); it would be dispersive to discuss the historical origins of damask blades here, I believe it is sufficient to state that, with modern technology, the qualities that once distinguished damask blades can be found substantially in every type of blade, so damask blades today essentially retain only an aesthetic function.

Japanese Steels: Choosing Between Soul and Maintenance

The magic of the Japanese knife comes from the type of steel used , which determines sharpening, edge duration and maintenance. A choice that deeply affects the daily experience.

Always speaking as a layman, carbon steels are considered easier to sharpen as if they were razors but require much more maintenance, while stainless steels do not reach levels of sharpening comparable to carbon blades, but require much less maintenance; searching online you will also find those who will say that technology has greatly weakened these differences and that nowadays there are qualities of stainless steel that can be sharpened almost as much as a carbon steel blade; as in every sector, obviously, you will find Taliban of tradition, superficial and incompetent judgments that preach out of place and a few elusive competent people and if you do not know the subject it will be difficult to distinguish one from the other. As a general rule, I believe that it will be almost impossible for you to find sushi chefs in Japan who handle stainless steel knives, although I believe that this preference should be taken into account because Japan is a country where respect for tradition reaches levels of obstinacy unmatched in the rest of the world (but it is also a country where the obsessive pursuit of quality reaches unrivaled heights).

As a bottom line, I think I can say this: in your purchase you do not necessarily have to emulate Japanese chefs, as you have neither the expertise nor the skill; a carbon steel knife is a handcrafted object of unparalleled beauty, but if you decide to make such a purchase, compared to a much more conventional and Western stainless steel knife, you must be prepared to treat your purchase with the care you would give to a child; to be clear, the chef of Nishi Azabu Kamikura, cleaned and dried the knife carefully, after each cut .

Carbon steels – pure wire, maximum care

• White steel (Shirogami) , in grades #1 and #2, offers maximum sharpness. It is ideal for those who want a Zen temple blade, but it is oxidizable : it requires constant drying and oiling; I mean constant .

• Blue steel (Aogami) , enriched with tungsten and chromium, is more resistant and durable. The Aogami Super versions reach very high hardness (~63-64 HRC), while maintaining good sharpening.

Stainless Steels – Performance with Less Worry

• VG-10 is a benchmark stainless steel: it holds its edge for a long time, resists rust, is easy to sharpen.

• Gingami #3 is used for traditional knives with performance comparable to carbon, but without the same brittleness.

• Another frequently cited quality is SG2 (also known as R2): it is a latest generation, high quality stainless steel that has the characteristic of maintaining its sharpness for a long time (even in this case, as in any other case, searching online you will find supporters and detractors of this metal, but these are levels of maniacal analysis that should not interest neophytes).

Which knife to choose, based on who you are

As I said, when visiting Kappabashi or Tsukiji, the variety of the offer makes you dizzy and often the local shopkeepers' poor English doesn't help you choose. In my case, after deciding on the shop to buy from based on reviews and on the case, I asked to be shown the "general purpose" knives section, narrowed down the choice based on my budget and finally chose the one that stood out the most in attracting my attention.

However, I asked Chatgpt what was the best purchase choice for a neophyte and the answer was: " choose a Santoku or a Gyuto in VG-10 steel , easy to maintain and perfect for everyday use. Kappabashi is the right place for a first technical purchase, perhaps with a nice personalized engraving ."

Regarding personalized engraving , this is a service that, from what I have found, is offered by most shops, but it is not possible on all blades.

Maintenance: between practice and ritual

Every Japanese blade deserves respect. Sharpening is not an obligation, but a ritual of care .

A well-maintained Japanese knife can last for decades if treated properly; my advice, therefore, is to seek advice on the most suitable sharpening stones when purchasing the knife.

Among the basic precautions in the maintenance of a handmade knife I would point out:

• Recommended sharpening stones: 1000 for standard sharpening, 3000-6000 for finishing, 8000+ for the finishing touch on sashimi knives.

• Be careful about the cutting surface: only cut on wood or food grade plastic. I read somewhere that the best Japanese artisan knives should only be used on hinoki wood cutting boards, which have elastic and soft characteristics that do not damage the blade; needless to say, I also bought this at Kappabashi.

• No dishwasher. Ever.

• Camellia oil: to protect carbon blades from moisture.

The logistics

When you buy a large kitchen knife in Japan, it comes in a wrapped and "sealed" package; I read somewhere, but it is also common sense, that by walking on the street (especially on the way from the shop to the hotel) keeping the "seals" intact ensures that you are in full compliance with local safety regulations, although in truth no policeman in Japan has ever thought of searching my luggage.

It goes without saying that when packing for the plane, the little katana should go in the hold luggage, possibly well hidden among the dirty laundry to prevent theft; obviously you don't want to see the expensive jewel confiscated at security checks...

Alternatives to Tokyo

In case it wasn't obvious, let's remember: Japan is not just Tokyo; beyond the capital, there is an entire universe and this also applies to knives.

In Osaka Prefecture, the city of Sakai boasts a thousand-year-old tradition of bladework. Among the most famous forges in Sakai are Mizuno Tanrenjo , founded in 1872, and Wada Cutlery.

Conclusion. Japanese knives: one blade, one identity

Buying a knife in Tokyo is not just a technical act. It is an immersion in the world of monozukuri , the Japanese art of doing well, with care, with heart. It is choosing to inhabit a gesture, whether it is the precise cut of a carrot or the perfect slice of toro.

Kappabashi offers you the science of cooking, Tsukiji gives you its spirit. Both invite you to hold the blade with awareness and respect towards an artisanal product that is the fruit of a thousand-year-old tradition.