Diving in cenotes in Yucatan peninsula (Dos Ojos, Carwash, Angelita): An Experience Out of Time and Space
- The Introvert Traveler
- 7 days ago
- 12 min read
Last visit : January 2025
My rating : 10/10
A trip to Yucatan for diving, in addition to the unmissable dives in Cozumel and Playa del Carmen, cannot fail to include a few days dedicated to diving in cenotes, karst formations filled with fresh water that allow diving enthusiasts to dive in amazing underground environments, characterized by geological formations typical of caves, such as stalactites and stalagmites, amazing light effects, environmental conditions that cannot be found elsewhere. This is a peculiarity of Yucatan and in particular of the Tulum area that is almost unique in the world, which will make the experience of traveling to Mexico an unforgettable memory for any diver.
What are cenotes: geological origin and distribution
The term cenote comes from the Mayan word dz'onot , meaning "sacred well." Geologically, cenotes are karst sinkholes formed over millions of years by the collapse of the roofs of underground caves filled with water. This phenomenon is typical of limestone regions, where slightly acidic rainwater gradually dissolves the limestone rock, creating caves, tunnels and underground rivers. When the roof of these cavities gives way, a cenote opens.
In pre-Columbian times, cenotes were considered sacred places by the Mayans, both as a source of drinking water and as portals to the spirit world. Many still contain archaeological finds and human remains.
How many cenotes are there in the Yucatan peninsula?
Cenotes are found predominantly in tropical limestone regions around the world, but nowhere else is there as much cenotes as the Yucatan Peninsula. According to data from the Sistema de Información Geográfica de Cenotes (SIGCenotes), updated by the Mexican government and the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM), there are over 10,000 cenotes in the Yucatán Peninsula alone, many of which have not yet been mapped or explored. In the area between Tulum, Playa del Carmen, and Valladolid – the so-called Cinturón de Cenotes – there are hundreds of them accessible for diving.
Although the Tulum area is the most famous for cenote diving, these formations are widespread throughout the Yucatan; a not so well-known peculiarity is that some recent studies link the distribution of these geological formations to the perimeter of the impact zone of the asteroid that is believed to have caused the extinction of the dinosaurs; the asteroid impact, in fact, formed the Chicxulub crater, and along the perimeter of this crater the distribution of cenotes is particularly frequent (in this case it is the north-west of the Yucatan, not the Tulum area).
Cavern Diving vs Cave Diving: A Key Distinction
Cavern diving
Cavern diving is a form of diving that takes place in the penetration zone visible by natural external light. This is the entrance area of the cenote, where it is always possible to see the exit. It is accessible to recreational divers with the Open Water or Advanced Open Water certification, accompanied by a certified Full Cave Diver guide.
The rules of cavern diving are:
Maximum depth 21 meters.
No penetration beyond the illuminated area.
One guide for every four divers.
Using main and secondary torches.
Always-present guideline (usually permanently installed).
Cave diving
Cave diving, on the other hand, is a technical specialty that requires specific training (e.g. TDI, IANTD, GUE certifications). The diver enters completely dark areas, far from sunlight and potentially hundreds of meters from the exit. It is a highly specialized discipline that requires the use of advanced configurations (such as sidemount , scooter, stage tank, etc.), rigorous gas management according to the rule of thirds or sixths, and often the use of mixtures such as Nitrox or Trimix.
Important : Even in the more well-known cenotes such as Dos Ojos, both cavern and cave diving can be done, but only trained divers can go beyond the cavern diving restrictions.
Differences between cenote diving and sea diving
From a sensorial point of view, compared to a common sea dive, diving in a cenote is distinguished by:
Silence and absence of noisy fauna : Cenotes are extremely silent places. No sound of waves, bubbles of fish or boats.
Absence of current and waves : the water is completely flat, calm, without wave motion.
Extreme visibility : in optimal conditions, visibility can reach up to 100 metres thanks to the fresh water naturally filtered by limestone.
Surreal atmosphere : stalactites, geological formations, rays of light that penetrate like blades into the darkness create an almost mystical atmosphere.
No visible marine life : no coral or schools of fish, but occasional catfish, small crustaceans or blind shrimp.
From a technical point of view:
Precise trim : The tight environment requires impeccable trim control. Touching the bottom can stir up sediment that reduces visibility or, worse, damage some rock formation that took centuries to form.
Absence of current : promotes tranquility, but means that the diver must move carefully to avoid stirring up debris.
Stable temperature : the water is almost always around 24-25°C, even during the winter.
No salinity : immersion in fresh water (except in some stratified cenotes, such as Angelita).
Furthermore, compared to sea diving, for cenote diving there are some important conventions to respect that will be explained to you in a thorough and detailed way before the dive:
air consumption follows the rule of thirds: for a cylinder charged to 210 bar, this means that the inversion point is 140 bar (not 100) and the exit from the water must occur with a minimum of 70 bar;
you must never lose visual reference with the line which must be followed throughout the dive and must never be at a distance greater than one metre;
the finning stroke to be used must be the frog-kick, so as not to raise sediment and to minimize damage to the environment;
Communication between divers occurs by moving the torches: a long, wide, slow circular movement is equivalent to "ok"; a long, slow horizontal movement from left to right and back to left is equivalent to "attention"; a frantic movement of the torch is an alarm signal.
Since these are freshwater dives, the weight is obviously different from that in salt water and must be carefully measured before starting the dive.
Typically a 5mm wetsuit is used as the temperature is constant around 25 degrees.
What to Know Before Going Cenote Diving
If you already have experience as a diver and have good control of your buoyancy, there is no reason why you cannot try the experience of diving in some of the most famous Mexican cenotes. The main requirement is not to suffer from claustrophobia, but the cenotes that I comment below are extremely large spaces where passage in narrow spaces is not foreseen, so the only substantial peculiarity is that of being in a closed environment; only those who suffer from irrational and uncontrollable phobias could have problems diving in a cenote, while for everyone else it is a magnificent experience that allows you to explore completely exceptional environments, with powerfully suggestive scenarios.
As for the equipment , this will be provided by the specialized diving center that you will necessarily have to contact to do the dives; this will include a BCD with a backrest, useful for maintaining the most horizontal trim possible, and a pair of torches; from this point of view I point out that nothing prevents you from bringing your torch, if you have one, and from diving with three torches; in fact, the more light you have in the cenotes, the better. Regarding the wing BCD, this could be a little disconcerting in the first few minutes, if you are used to a traditional BCD, but as soon as you begin to enter the cenote you cannot help but appreciate its functionality.
After reading some blogs I was a little worried about the difficulty of accessing the cenotes, but I had to change my mind, all the cenotes I visited have a parking lot in the immediate vicinity and the road that leads to the entrance to the water is always easy and equipped with paved access; during my dives I particularly appreciated the fact that I had requested a porter (at the price of 600 pesos per day), which was providential because a few days before leaving I had hurt my foot, which would have made transporting the equipment from the car to the cenote decidedly painful, but in normal conditions I believe that it is absolutely not necessary, unless you want to particularly spoil yourself.
Photography and video
For photography and video enthusiasts, cenotes are a challenging environment; your guide will probably ask you not to bring your equipment on the first dive to assess your ability to move with mastery in the cenote environment, so take this into account when evaluating if, for example, you are planning only one day of cenote diving and need to evaluate whether to take expensive and bulky equipment on board; the total darkness, broken only by the beams of torches, makes it particularly difficult to take photos or videos; ISO and shutter settings must be carefully planned in advance. My suggestion is to study some specific guide, such as https://www.uwphotographyguide.com/top-11-tips-for-cenote-photography , so as to be partially prepared for an environment that poses problems that are decidedly different from a usual open water dive.
The photos on this page are terrible, I know; it was my first time using a new camera and I was not at all prepared for the environmental conditions.
Safety when diving in cenotes
For recreational divers, cenote diving is safe if done according to cavern diving rules and always with an experienced guide . Mexico has a long tradition of cave and cavern diving, with highly professional operators who use redundant equipment, carefully plan the dives and know the caverns inside out.
Safety factors:
Full cave certified guide mandatory.
Permanent guidelines.
Redundant configuration: torches, regulators, pressure gauges.
Detailed briefings before the dive.
Absence of external factors (waves, currents).
Contraindications:
Claustrophobia.
Anxiety about darkness or small spaces.
Poor trim control.
Dive center
Due to my negligence I had some difficulty finding a dive center that could accompany me during the days of stay that I had planned in Tulum; diving in cenotes is different in many ways compared to a dive in the sea; not only does the confined environment limit the number of divers who can access at the same time, but by convention each guide cannot accompany more than 4 divers, which often ends up being two; considering that guides with certification for cave diving are not available in infinite numbers, it is obvious that there is a limit to the capacity to absorb demand that the numerous dive centers in the Tulum area can absorb, especially in high season. My suggestion, therefore, is to choose your diving center and book it months in advance . I, after having guiltily waited the month before departure to take action, and after having received numerous refusals, was lucky enough to find Under the Jungle , which is probably, in general, the best diving center I have ever dived with: top equipment, scrupulous service bordering on maniacal, great flexibility in accommodating every need of the customer, superlative guides (10/10); other renowned dive centers are Taz Diving, Blue Life, Koox Diving. The cenote diving service is also offered by the diving centers located in Playa del Carmen which are further away but tend to offer more competitive prices than those located in Tulum; a diving center in Playa del Carmen that offers the cenote diving service is ScubaPlaya .
On average, the price for a double dive in a cenote is 200 euros, to which you must add the tip for the guide, any entrance fees to the individual cenotes and, if you want to take photos or videos, the entrance fee for the equipment which varies from cenote to cenote but is normally between 10 and 20 dollars.
Focus on three iconic cenotes near Tulum
1. Cenote Dos Ojos
Probably the most famous cenote of all. Located about a 12-minute drive from the center of Tulum, Cenote Dos Ojos, which means "Two Eyes" in Spanish, gets its name from the two adjacent circular openings that, when seen from above, resemble two eyes looking up at the sky. These two entrances lead to a large system of underwater caves.
Dive Features:
Maximum depth: approximately 7 meters, making it suitable even for less experienced divers.
Main routes:
Barbie Line: A wider, more scenic route, ideal for beginners.
Batcave Line: A slightly more technical route that leads to a cave populated by bats.
Diving Experience:
The crystal clear water offers exceptional visibility, allowing you to admire the intricate formations of stalactites and stalagmites. The natural light that penetrates through the openings creates breathtaking plays of light, making the dive almost surreal. The water temperature remains constant around 24-26 ° C throughout the year, ensuring a comfortable experience. The presence of two routes means that Dos Ojos alone requires a whole day; the two daily dives are in fact necessary to explore both the "Barbie line" (so called because of a Barbie doll that for some unknown reason can be seen along the route) and the "Batcave line" which owes its name to a cave populated by small bats where it is possible to emerge to breathe and observe the small flying mammals.
Since Dos Ojos is the most famous cenote, it is also probably the most crowded, which is why some dive centers try to discourage tourists from putting it at the top of their list by suggesting other less crowded but equally impressive cenotes. The popularity and attendance of the cenote means that Dos Ojos is excellently serviced, from excellent parking, to souvenirs, to access facilities.
I was lucky enough to visit Dos Ojos on a high season day when the cenote was not under assault by hordes of divers and it was a truly unforgettable experience; slowly entering the meanders of the underground galleries, listening only to the sound of your own breathing and peering in awe at the rock formations as if they were the foundations of the planet is a surreal and astonishing experience.
2. Cenote Car Wash (Aktun Ha)
About 10 minutes from Tulum, on the road to Cobá, is the Cenote Carwash, known locally as Aktun Ha. The name "Carwash" comes from the fact that, in the 90's, this cenote was used to wash the local police cars.
Dive Features:
Maximum depth: approximately 16 metres.
Difficulty level: Level 2, suitable for divers with good control of buoyancy.
Diving Experience:
The dive begins in an open area similar to a pond, adorned with water lilies and inhabited by a variety of freshwater fish and turtles. Continuing, you enter the cavernous area where you can admire fascinating limestone formations. One of the most striking aspects of Carwash is the presence of a layer of tannins between 4 and 6 meters deep, which creates a unique visual effect, giving the impression of swimming through a thin veil of tea. This cenote is also known for the presence of a halocline, where fresh and salt water meet, creating a particular optical effect.
The entrance to the open air is already noticeably different from Dos Ojos, where the entrance is already substantially in the cave, even if in a fully illuminated environment; the entrance to Carwash is in fact a natural pool and the experience of swimming in that absolutely clear water, observing turtles, small freshwater fish and water lilies is a completely new experience for those who are used to sea diving; when you enter the underground environment you are then amazed by how different each cave is from the other and just as Carwash is noticeably different from Dos Ojos; the most memorable image is however, at the end of the dive, the view of the entrance to the cave with the beams of light darting through the water.
3. Cenote Angelita
About 15 minutes south of Tulum is Cenote Angelita, which means “Little Angel” in Spanish. This cenote offers a unique and slightly eerie diving experience, often compared to a scene from a movie.
Dive Features:
Maximum depth: up to 35 meters.
Difficulty level: Level 3, recommended for experienced divers with deep diving certification.
Diving Experience:
Angelita is essentially an inverted cone about 40 metres deep, inside which sediments are deposited and emerge inside the main cone forming a second inverted cone that grows in height as the sediments accumulate.
The Angelita dive is characterized by a vertical descent into clear fresh water to about 28-30 meters, where you encounter a thick layer of hydrogen sulfide (generated by the decomposition of organic materials that fall into the cenote and settle on the bottom) that appears as a suspended cloud. This layer creates the illusion of a "false bottom", above which tree trunks and branches emerge (which are precisely the top of the cone of deposits, a top that emerges a few centimeters from the sulfide cloud), giving the impression of a ghostly underwater landscape. After passing this cloud, you enter a layer of salt water, where visibility may decrease slightly. It is a dive that requires good management of trim and air consumption, but offers a truly unique experience.
Floating just above the cloud in the dim light of the cenote is a surreal experience reminiscent of some depictions of Dante's ditches and, once again, a totally different experience compared to the other two cenotes I explored.
Even though I haven't visited it, I think it's impossible not to mention El Pit, along with Dos Ojos, certainly among the most renowned cenotes (and represented on Instagram); El Pit is in fact the most photographed cenote ever; you've surely seen those spectacular photos in which small divers dive into a gigantic chasm while colossal beams of light from above pierce the water. Here: that's El Pit; having only two days to dedicate to diving in cenotes, on my trip to the Yucatan, and having to choose, I was advised to discard El Pit, because what makes it spectacular are above all the light conditions, which however (so I was told) only occur in certain months of the year and not in January, when I visited the Yucatan.
Conclusions
Diving in cenotes is a unique experience, both from a geological and emotional point of view. It requires respect, preparation and technical awareness, but it gives back unrepeatable emotions. It is not an alternative to the ocean, but rather a parallel and complementary experience, capable of expanding the diver's abilities and offering him new keys to reading the underwater world.
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