Country: Tanzania
Travel date: end of August 2024
My rating: 8
Dive center: Big Blu Mafia
Accommodation: Big Blu Mafia
Mafia Island, located off the coast of Tanzania, south of Zanzibar, is renowned for its marine protected area, making it a prime destination for diving enthusiasts.
Mafia offers a much less touristy environment compared to Zanzibar and Pemba, with a tranquil atmosphere that attracts those looking for a more intimate and less crowded diving experience.
Mafia is a poor island; outside of the few accommodation facilities, some more luxurious, others less refined, the landscape of Mafia is characterized by a prevalence of makeshift dwellings, shacks, and small houses that also characterize the urban structure of Tanzania; however, the population is always dignified. Those who do not enjoy the somewhat artificial splendor of more renowned locations will appreciate the authenticity and tranquility of Mafia.
Compared to nearby Pemba and Zanzibar, Mafia's sea does not offer postcard landscapes with white sandy beaches and crystal-clear azure water, but instead, it provides a valuable underwater environment for diving enthusiasts. Personally, I chose Mafia as a destination for its well-known population of whale sharks, but, regarding diving, given that my only points of comparison at the time were the Red Sea and Raja Ampat, I was somewhat skeptical. However, I must say I was pleasantly surprised; Raja Ampat is indeed on another level, but the dives I did in Mafia, for the vitality of the corals and biodiversity, had nothing to envy to many dives I did in the Red Sea, so I can say that the small island was a very pleasant surprise; all the dives I have done in Mafia have been far superior to many dives I have done in, for example, Safaga or Hurghada.
Best Diving Seasons
Diving in Mafia Island is possible all year round, but there are specific periods that offer better conditions. The best diving season is generally considered to be from October to March, when the weather is drier and underwater visibility is at its peak. The rainy season, from April to May, can negatively affect visibility and make diving less attractive.
Personally, I visited Mafia in the last week of August, a period that corresponds to the end of winter, and I can't regret my choice; the weather was generally warm, between 25 and 30 degrees depending on cloud cover; the water temperature fluctuated between 25 and 27 degrees depending on the day. The only modest discomfort related to the season was the need to cover up a bit when exiting the dives on cloudy days when the wind on the boat could become slightly chilly.
Another aspect related to diving is that during winter, it is possible to dive only in the bay, while in summer, when the ocean is calmer, it is possible to dive outside the bay on vertical walls. In winter, however, due to sea conditions, dives are limited to the inner bay area, where beautiful dives can still be enjoyed due to the quantity and vitality of the corals and marine fauna. The only limitation of bay dives is that they are very shallow water dives, lacking the excitement of a wall dive.
Influence of Tides and Diving Conditions
Tides have a significant influence on diving conditions in Mafia Island. Dives are often scheduled according to the tides to ensure optimal conditions. During low tides, some areas may become difficult to access, while high tides provide access to more dive sites. Additionally, currents can vary significantly depending on the tides, affecting the diving experience. More experienced divers can take advantage of stronger currents to explore more remote areas, while beginners may prefer calmer current conditions.
Tides greatly affect visibility; high tide phases bring clear water from the ocean, while during low tide, when the sea recedes, visibility tends to decrease, and sandy bottoms stir up a lot of sediment. In any case, during all the dives I did in August, I always enjoyed visibility ranging from 15 to 30 meters, much higher than my expectations, which were also influenced by some readings I had done online, describing diving conditions with very low visibility.
Marine Flora and Fauna
Mafia Island is famous for its rich marine biodiversity. Its waters are home to over 400 species of fish, five species of sea turtles, and a wide range of invertebrates. The coral reefs around the island are particularly notable, with both hard and soft corals creating a vibrant environment for numerous marine species.
What characterizes the marine protected area are the large quantities of fish; among the typical endemic species I frequently spotted were large groupers, which I believe belonged to the species Epinephelus tukula, huge and beautiful specimens of black-spotted stingrays, as well as frequent turtles.
Snorkeling with Whale Sharks
One of the most thrilling experiences offered by Mafia Island is the opportunity to snorkel with whale sharks. The island of Mafia has linked its identity to that of the whale shark, with which the inhabitants of Mafia, whose economy is closely linked to fishing, live in an almost symbiotic way.
Mafia is, in fact, according to what I've read, the only place in the world with a resident population of whale sharks; traditionally, while they spend the period from April to September in deeper waters away from the island, in the other months, they approach the western coast, where they can be regularly spotted. However, this seasonality should be interpreted flexibly because, for example, in 2024, when I visited the island, whale sharks were regularly spotted as early as the entire month of August.
The morning snorkeling with whale sharks was an experience that will be remembered for a lifetime. The staff at Butiama was phenomenal in spotting the giant immediately, on the first attempt, and assisting us for over two hours at sea with the placid Papa Potwe, as the whale shark is called in these parts.
A couple of tips to make the most of the experience: if you are not strong swimmers, I recommend using a wetsuit, not so much for the water temperature, because you will spend the whole time swimming vigorously to keep up with the shark, but for buoyancy assistance, because if you are not very fit, two hours of freestyle at full speed could challenge not only your heart and lungs but also your ability to stay afloat. On the other hand, if you are a bit more trained, adding a weight belt can be useful; often, in fact, the whale shark hesitates to surface, and it can be helpful to dive a few meters to see it up close.
Dive centers
Mafia Island offers several dive centers that cater to both beginners and experienced divers. Among the most renowned are the "Big Blu Diving Centre" and "Mafia Island Diving."
Personally, I used Big Blu for both diving and accommodation, and I was fully satisfied in every aspect.
Being my first time diving in Africa (in my mind, Egypt is not part of Africa but the Middle East), I started with many prejudices; I had read online stories of some African dive centers that were not exactly professional; on the contrary, I must say I appreciated the extreme professionalism and preparation of all the staff at Big Blu. I dived with three different guides, all extraordinary, and in hindsight, I can only feel embarrassed if I think back to my prejudices before leaving.
Having decided to bring only part of my equipment on the trip, I rented most of it locally, finding it to be of excellent quality and in excellent condition. The dive boat was a beautiful converted fishing boat, extremely comfortable and spacious; in addition, the boat offered the option to sail back to shore after the dives, a much-appreciated touch of exotic charm.
The bungalows adjacent to the dive center provide a very enjoyable accommodation solution; unlike the rooms at Butiama, the twin high end facility on the island's west coast, they are quite spartan, but the verandas with couches overlooking the palms by the sea are exactly what you need to relax after a year of work, as well as after a day of diving. The same goes for the bar and restaurant areas, simple but very welcoming and charming.
Finally, the quality of the cuisine was decidedly above expectations.
Conclusions
I feel compelled to tell diving enthusiasts about Mafia as a true hidden gem; its low tourist profile allows not only for diving in uncrowded dive sites but also for enjoying an exotic and authentic atmosphere, very different from the Western standardization typical of many more famous tourist destinations, during the time spent on land. The evenings spent watching the crystal-clear sky full of stars with the dugout canoes lying on the sandy bottom exposed by low tide are a delightful memory of the week spent in Mafia.
The underwater environment is decidedly above expectations and has nothing to envy to many dives in the Red Sea (except for some excellent locations such as Brothers, Daedalus, and Elphinstone, or the Thistlegorm).
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