Type of cuisine: traditional roman
Last visit: January 2023
Region: Latium, Italy
My rating: 7/10
Address: Via Mastro Giorgio 29, 00153, Rome
Phone: +39 06 574 6800
Price: €€/€€€€€
Located in the heart of Testaccio, a historic neighborhood in Rome, Felice a Testaccio is a culinary institution that has been serving authentic Roman cuisine for decades. For any visitor seeking to experience the flavors of the Eternal City, this restaurant is a must-visit. My recent visit offered a blend of tradition, quality, and atmosphere that any food lover would appreciate.
The Setting
Felice a Testaccio is tucked away in a quieter part of Rome, offering a respite from the bustling tourist spots like Trastevere or Piazza Navona. The restaurant has a classic, no-frills ambiance, with modern touches that still honor its historical roots. The interior is sleek but cozy, with white tablecloths and minimalistic décor that keeps the focus squarely on the food. The service is attentive without being overbearing, with knowledgeable staff ready to guide diners through the menu.
The Food
The menu is an ode to Roman culinary traditions, with dishes that have been perfected over the years. The first thing to try, and perhaps the restaurant’s most famous dish, is Cacio e Pepe. The simplicity of pasta, Pecorino Romano, and black pepper is elevated to new heights here. The dish is finished tableside, adding a bit of theater to the experience. The pasta is perfectly cooked, and the creamy, peppery sauce clings to every strand, offering a comforting and rich bite.
Another standout dish is La Gricia, an ancestor of the better-known Amatriciana. Made with guanciale, Pecorino cheese, and black pepper, it’s a hearty and savory dish that showcases the flavors of Roman cooking at its best. The guanciale is crispy yet tender, adding a beautiful contrast to the creaminess of the sauce.
Of course we also tried the Carbonara, which has the reputation of being one of the best in Rome; needless to say, what we tasted was a REAL Carbonara, as is not easy to find in a city where most restaurants offer low-quality products for tourists; also in this case Felice a Testaccio has lived up to its reputation, offering a top-quality Carbonara.
For those who want to explore beyond pasta, the Oxtail (Coda alla Vaccinara) is a traditional Roman stew that is a must-try. It’s rich, slow-cooked for hours until the meat falls off the bone, and packed with robust flavors of tomatoes, celery, and a hint of cocoa. This dish is deeply comforting and perfect for those cooler Roman evenings.
The only sore point was the puntarelle (a salad made of crunchy chicory tops with garlic and anchovies), a passion of mine, which were presented to us with a slightly too liquid dressing that tended to drown out the flavour.
The Experience
One of the key highlights of Felice a Testaccio is how it balances the traditional with the contemporary. While the dishes are rooted in old Roman recipes, there’s a refinement to them that makes the meal feel special. Each dish is well-executed, made with quality ingredients, and served with a pride that reflects the restaurant's long-standing heritage.
The pricing here is on the higher side compared to other trattorias in Rome, but it’s worth the investment. The quality of the food and the overall experience justify the cost, especially for those looking to savor classic Roman dishes in a refined setting.
Final Thoughts
Felice a Testaccio is more than just a meal; it’s a journey through Rome’s rich culinary past. Whether you're a seasoned traveler or a first-time visitor, this restaurant offers a true taste of Roman tradition with a modern twist. Make sure to book ahead, as it’s a popular spot among both locals and tourists alike.
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