Location: Brittany, 40 minutes from Rennes
Why visit: A very picturesque medieval village, typically Breton, with steep cobbled streets, imposing ramparts, and a marina.
My rating: 7/10
1. Introduction to Dinan
The Medieval Town: A Journey Through History
Dinan is one of the most authentic places in Brittany, seemingly frozen in time. Founded over a thousand years ago, this fortified town was one of the most important centers in the region during the Middle Ages due to its strategic position on the banks of the Rance River. Today, its 3 km of medieval walls, cobblestone streets, and timber-framed houses are perfectly preserved, offering a unique experience for history and culture lovers.
Walking through Dinan feels like stepping into another era. Its narrow, winding streets, paved with ancient cobblestones, lead visitors through centuries of history, while the colorful timber-framed houses, adorned with flowers, frame the urban landscape. These houses date back to the 15th and 16th centuries and are often decorated with typical Breton architectural elements such as wooden balconies and elaborate carvings. The atmosphere in the streets of Dinan is magical: the sound of footsteps on the cobblestones, the smell of freshly baked bread, and the voices of local merchants bring the medieval town to life.
The Charm of Cobblestone Streets
One of Dinan's main charms is its maze of cobblestone streets, each with its own character. The most famous is undoubtedly Rue du Jerzual, a steep street connecting the historic center to the port. This street is one of the oldest in the town, and walking its 800 meters feels like turning the pages of a history book. The houses lining the street, built with a mix of wood and stone, now host artisan workshops and art galleries, making the walk not just a historical experience, but a cultural one as well.
Another iconic street is Rue de l’Horloge, leading to the Clock Tower, one of Dinan’s symbols. This street is lined with shops and cafes, inviting you to take a break and enjoy a coffee while watching life move slowly. Sitting at one of the many outdoor tables, watching people pass by, will make you feel like part of the town’s history.
Dinan's Role in French History
In the Middle Ages, Dinan was a prosperous town thanks to its strategic position on trade routes between Brittany and Normandy. Its imposing walls, built to protect the town from attacks, reflect the military and political importance it held in the past. Dinan played a key role during the Hundred Years' War, when it became the site of several battles between French and English troops.
One of the most famous historical figures linked to Dinan is Bertrand du Guesclin, a renowned Breton knight and military leader, whose heart is buried in the Basilica of Saint-Sauveur. Du Guesclin became a legendary figure during the Hundred Years' War for his military prowess and bravery, and he is still celebrated today as a national hero.
In the 18th century, with the onset of industrialization, Dinan lost some of its strategic importance, but managed to preserve its medieval charm thanks to its isolation from major industrial centers. Today, Dinan thrives on tourism, attracting visitors from all over the world who want to immerse themselves in its history and beauty.
An Unforgettable Visiting Experience
Visiting Dinan is not only about discovering a piece of history but also about enjoying a unique sensory experience. The contrast between the imposing walls and the lush greenery of the gardens surrounding the town offers breathtaking views. The panoramic terraces, such as those at the Jardin Anglais, provide a spectacular view of the Rance River and the port below, where you can rent a boat and sail along the tranquil waters, admiring Dinan from a different perspective.
Every corner of the town exudes an atmosphere of tranquility and authenticity, making Dinan the perfect place for those looking to escape the hustle and bustle of modern life. The town is relatively small and can easily be explored on foot in a day, although it’s worth taking more time to fully enjoy all its wonders.
2. How to Get to Dinan
By Plane
The nearest airport to Dinan is Dinard-Pleurtuit-Saint-Malo Airport, located about 20 km from the town. This small airport is connected to several European cities with direct flights, especially during the tourist season. Alternatively, you can fly into Rennes, which is about 50 km from Dinan.
By Train
Dinan is easily accessible by train, thanks to the rail line that connects it to Rennes. The journey from Rennes to Dinan takes around 55 minutes. If you're traveling from Paris, you can take a TGV to Rennes and then switch to a regional train bound for Dinan.
By Car
If you prefer driving, Dinan is well connected by major highways. From Rennes, you can reach Dinan in less than an hour by following the N137. If you’re driving from Paris, the journey takes around 4 hours and 30 minutes.
3. Main Attractions in Dinan
a) The City Walls (Les Remparts)
Dinan's well-preserved medieval walls offer a stunning panoramic view of the town and the Rance River. You can walk along the walls and visit the numerous towers and bastions along the way. Don’t miss the Clock Tower, one of the tallest points in the town, which provides a spectacular view of the historic center.
b) The Basilica of Saint-Sauveur
Built in the 12th century, the Basilica of Saint-Sauveur is one of Dinan’s most significant religious buildings. This splendid example of Romanesque and Gothic architecture is known for its colorful stained-glass windows and its magnificent carved portal. Inside, you'll find the tomb of the heart of the knight Bertrand du Guesclin, a famous French hero.
c) Rue du Jerzual
Rue du Jerzual is one of the most iconic streets in Dinan. This steep, cobblestone street, lined with timber-framed houses, leads from the town center to the port. Along the way, you’ll find numerous craft shops and art galleries. Be sure to take a break at one of the cafes to soak in the authentic atmosphere of this historic street.
d) Dinan’s Port
Dinan’s port, located along the Rance River, is a picturesque spot where you can relax and enjoy a peaceful walk. You can also rent a boat or a bicycle to explore the surrounding riverbanks. The port is perfect for a lunch break, with several restaurants offering Breton specialties.
4. What to Eat in Dinan
Dinan’s cuisine, like all of Brittany, is a celebration of authentic flavors and fresh ingredients. The region is famous for its galettes and crêpes, as well as seafood dishes, fish, and butter-based delicacies. Here are some must-try dishes and the best places to enjoy them.
a) Galettes and Crêpes
Galettes are savory crêpes made from buckwheat flour, traditionally filled with ham, cheese, and eggs. In Dinan, you’ll find numerous crêperies where you can enjoy this specialty, such as the famous Crêperie Ahna, located in the heart of the historic center. In addition to classic galettes, you can also try more creative versions with ingredients like smoked salmon, scallops, or local cheeses.
Sweet crêpes, on the other hand, are made with white wheat flour and filled with jams, chocolate, caramel, or salted butter, another Breton specialty. There’s nothing better than enjoying a sweet crêpe with a glass of Breton cider, a lightly sparkling fermented apple drink.
b) Seafood and Fish
Being close to the coast, Dinan offers a rich variety of seafood and fish dishes. The port area is the perfect place to enjoy fresh oysters, mussels, and scallops. A traditional dish to try is cotriade, a Breton fish stew similar to bouillabaisse, made with fresh fish and served with croutons and rouille sauce. L'Atelier Gourmand is one of the best places to savor these dishes, thanks to its modern cuisine deeply rooted in tradition; another place I recommend for its excellent seafood is the Auberge des Terres Neuvas, overlooking the harbor.
c) Kouign-Amann: The Quintessential Breton Dessert
If you have a sweet tooth, you can’t leave Dinan without trying kouign-amann, a Breton pastry made from layers of dough, butter, and sugar. This dessert is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, a true explosion of flavors. You can find it in various boulangeries around town, but one of the most famous is La Maison du Kouign-Amann.
5. Useful Tips for Visiting Dinan
a) Visit During the Off-Season
If you want to avoid crowds, consider visiting Dinan during the off-season, in April or September. The weather is still pleasant, and you can enjoy the town in a more relaxed atmosphere.
b) Wear Comfortable Shoes
Dinan’s cobblestone streets can be tricky, especially if you’re not used to walking on uneven terrain. Be sure to wear comfortable shoes to explore the town without discomfort.
c) Discover the Local Cuisine
Don’t leave Dinan without trying some of the Breton specialties. In addition to galettes and seafood, make sure to savor kouign-amann and the local cider, two of Brittany’s culinary icons.
Dinan is a hidden gem in Brittany, offering a unique combination of history, culture, and natural beauty. With its well-preserved medieval center, picturesque port, and rich culinary tradition, Dinan is the perfect choice for anyone seeking an authentic French experience.
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